Europe is it…

16 08 2010

Once a year I can afford to go overseas. This year I’ve come to Europe to see what it’s all about. Well that wasn’t the initial reason; Claire was going to be coming back here to study, she’s not doing that now but that’s the reason I’m in Europe in the hottest time of the year.
I thought it might be a good idea to train hard in preparation to crank, I lot of good that did after 1 week of over training I pulled a muscle in my neck and didn’t climb for 5 weeks before I got here, stupid man, anyway…

I started the trip by meeting Claire’s family near Manchester, good bunch, felt very welcome, so she’ll keep 🙂
After that Claire and I flew to Milan in Italy, jumped in the hire car and drove though like 20 tunnels and ended up in Val di Mello.

Val di Mello is beautiful, big granite peaks and lots to climb. The town of San Martino is at 925m so we thought it might be cooler temperatures up there but we were wrong, It wasn’t too hot but climbing in the sun was an effort on the slabs. We did a few routes but after not climbing for a while and 5 bolts in 25m pitch (makes After Midnight look over bolted) made Jed a scared boy so we decided to move on to the Verdon Gorge

Just to give you an idea. If you can see that roof in the left of the photo that buttress is around 200m
Val di Mello

Claire walking up the valley
Val di Mello

Claire in the forest relaxing beside the river
Val di Mello

Verdon is awesome Limestone Climbing. I’ve never climbed on limestone before but I’m loving it. All the climbs start at the top so you rap in, pull your ropes and climb back out. So for a while I’m going to top rope some things and get strong again. The neck isn’t 100% better, still a slight soreness there so just seeing how it goes, if all is well I’ll be doing some of the 100-300m climbs that are at Verdon

“Face Au Public” 5b+ (14)
"Face Au Public" 5b+ (14)

On a rest day in Antibes now, went for a swim in the Mediterranean today, you don’t get to do that every day. Heading back to Verdon where we’ll be for a few weeks I thinks.

Me & Calire, On the beach in Antibes, Swimming in the mediterranean.
Me and Cliare

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To many 1’s and 0’s

25 07 2010

Not much news ey. When i got back from araps i over trained and the smedge and hurt my back again so i haven’t climbed in 2 weeks. It’s feeling better now so I should be climbing when i get to Europe (In 7 days) All i’ve done is work lots, earnt some extra money which i’ll spend on gear I don’t need.
Went up to Coles bay on the weekend and took some photos of my friends climbing at the star factory, was good to get outside even if i wasn’t climbing.

Jake on “Antimatter” 23
"Antimatter" 23

Alex on “The Supposed Golden Path” 27
"The Supposed Golden Path" 27

Jake on “Simply The Best” 28
"Simply The Best" 28

Simon on “Entree” 29
"Entree" 29

Simon on “Entree” 29
"Entree" 29





Quick visit to Araps

11 07 2010

Not a lot of news.
I’ve just got back from a week at araps. It was well worth it, I always forget how much i love that place. Had a bit of rain and I started the trip slow with a back injury but after 500m of soloing easy things that was gone. So my tick list was.

“The Eighth” grade 9 Solo 99m
“Tiptoe Ridge” grade 5 Solo 120m
“Introductory Route” grade 5 Solo 135m (First route ever done at araps)
“Siren” grade 9 Solo 145m (Second route ever done at araps)
“Siamese Crack” grade 15 seconded Claire, 20m
“Claw” grade 18 seconded Steve, 20m
“Entertainer” grade 18 lead onsight, 25m
“Slideshow” grade 19 lead onsight 25m
“Horn Piece” grade 13 lead sneakers 33m
“Tannin” grade 19 lead
“The Wraith” grade 21 lead red point
“Howling Wolf” grade 18 lead onsight
“Jackal” grade 18 lead onsight
“Electra” grade 18 seconded Steve
“Collision Course” grade 22 lead red point
“Yo Yo” grade 16 seconded Claire

Now I’ve 3 weeks till I fly to Europe, meet Claire’s relatives for a week then 5 weeks climbing in and around France, pretty damn psyched, trained my arse off last week, now I’ve flared up some old injuries, body says slow down. So going to have to knock it back a notch.

Me soloing “The Eighth” grade 9, Arapiles
Me soloing "The Eighth" grade 9,  Arapiles

Me soloing “Tiptoe Ridge” grade 5, Arapiles
Me soloing "Tiptoe Ridge" grade 5,  Arapiles

Claire leading “Siamese Crack” Grade 15, Arapiles
Claire leading "Siamese Crack" Grade 15,  Arapiles

Steve leading “Craw” grade 18, Arapiles
Steve leading "Craw" grade 18,  Arapiles

Steve leading through the roof on “The Entertainer” grade 18, Arapiles
Steve leading through the roof on "The Entertainer" grade 18,  Arapiles

Claire and I at the base of Tannin, grade 19, Arapiles
Claire and I at the base of Tannin, grade 19,  Arapiles

Rainbow, Arapiles
Rainbow,  Arapiles

Steve leading Electra, grade 19, Arapiles
Steve leading Electra, grade 19,  Arapiles

Kangaroo Arapiles
Kangaroo Arapiles

View from tiger wall Arapiles
View from tiger wall Arapiles

Grug and Steve signing at open Mic night at Nati Cafe
Grug and Steve signing at open Mic night at Nati Cafe

Duncan and Grug singing some tunes at open Mic night at Nati Cafe
Duncan and Grug singing some tunes at open Mic night at Nati Cafe

Steve singing some tunes at open Mic night at Nati Cafe
Steve singing some tunes at open Mic night at Nati Cafe

Dancing at open Mic night at Nati Cafe
Dancing at open Mic night at Nati Cafe

Simon and Steve at open Mic night at Nati Cafe
Simon and Steve at open Mic night at Nati Cafe





Jetley

31 05 2010

A quick update.
Tassie is getting colder and wetter. I’ve lost my psych atm still trying to get it back but my dodgy left ankle is slowing me down, it’s been wet the last 2x weekends, it’s dark after work but all i need to do is find a route to inspire me again and all will be fine.
Biggest news is Claire purposed to me, we’re engaged. The main event isn’t going to happen any time soon.
To quote an email Claire send her mom
“The triangle represents a mountain and the swirls represent life. Our lives around the mountain since we are connected by our passion for climbing and hiking and our life in Hobart under Mt Wellington.”
Claire & Jeds Engagement Rings

A few weeks ago a few of us went to Coles Bay
Topher and I did a route called “Of Jellyfish and Men” 23 @ White Stack
Topher got it second shot, it took me like 10 shots, thin sabby no feet but powerfull, good route.
Topher had a shot at “Eskimo Sun Park” 22 but the crack didn’t like topher’s hand in it so kept spitting him out.
Topher on “Eskimo Sun Park” 22 – Freycinet – Coles Bay
Topher on "Eskimo Sun Park" 22 - Freycinet - Coles Bay

White Water Wall just after sunset – Freycinet – Coles Bay
White Water Wall just after sunset - Freycinet - Coles Bay

A few days ago i decided to give “Les Grands Ensembles” 24 @ Waterworks Quarry a go.
Shitty little cliff but this is one of a few routes that actually climbs really well. Really delicate moves up the slab, exciting lead 🙂 Got it on my first lead attempt 🙂

Crazy John on “Les Grands Ensembles” 24 Waterworks Quarry Hobart
Crazy John on "Les Grands Ensembles" 24 Waterworks Quarry Hobart

Also went to my sisters Ali’s place to celebrate Dean’s 40th had fun catching up with them and got a few good photos.

Claire Poi
Claire Poi

Happy Bday
Happy Bday

A Random Cow
A Random Cow





Just shove your fist in there like your trying to get the cheese out of a cow…

3 05 2010

Well Last 2 weekends I’ve been up to Freycinet and went to the star factory 3 outta 4 days.
Have tried a few things but with my ankle still being sore my heads not playing nice and i haven’t got to much done just played on a few things although I’m getting good at antimatter.
Yesterday I decided to place some gear for a change. Man your harness is heavy with all those cams on there, it really has been to long but it was good. I manged to so “Sweet Revenge” 22 🙂

Me on “Sweet Revenge” 22 – Freycinet – Coles Bay (this photo was from Sep 2008 on my first attempt)
Me on "Sweet Revenge" 22 - Freycinet - Coles Bay

Zach cruised up “Beaman’s Route Direct” 22 his hardest route to date. He had 1 fall, rapped the route cleaned out all the gear, got back on and crushed it 🙂
I got a new Digital SLR so i was taking some photos trying to sort it out 🙂

Zach on “Beaman’s Route Direct” 22
Zach on "Beaman's Route Direct" 22
Zach on "Beaman's Route Direct" 22
Zach on "Beaman's Route Direct" 22
Zach on "Beaman's Route Direct" 22
Zach on "Beaman's Route Direct" 22

Zach photo crew for “Beaman’s Route Direct” 22
Zach photo crew for "Beaman's Route Direct" 22

I’ve started a Flickr Page so you can see all my photos there
Jed Parkes Flirkr page

Sunset @ Freycinet – Coles Bay
Sunset @ Freycinet - Coles Bay

What makes Claire laugh? My penis apparently…
What makes Claire laugh? My penis apparently...

I’ve been playing around with some HDR software its a good way to get a photo when you have a bad exposure. Just take 3 photos at different exposures and the software does the rest, example below.
Sleepy Bay – Freycinet – Coles Bay (HDR Example)
Sleepy Bay - Freycinet - Coles Bay (HDR Example)





Close call, have you every had a quick draw unclip underneath you, i have, fucken scary.

18 04 2010

I went to sisters beach on the weekend.
I wanted to have another shot on “The Butchers Dog” 25
After warming up i got on the climb, figured out the crux and i was going draw to draw at the top to get everything else dialed, my feet were just above the 3rd bolt and ….
I said to Deano “take”
He responded “just fix that quick draw below you” I looked down and it was cross loaded.
So I climbed down a little, gave the quick draw a nudge with my foot and the fucken quick draw came off…
The realization that suddenly I was like 12 meters off the deck and there was nothing between me and the ground hit me quick and now jumping off wasn’t an option, unless i wanted at least a broken limb.
Dean ‘Rodriguez’ Rollins was on the ball though “Have you got a quick draw he yelled up”
Luckily I did, so i fought the pump a little bit longer. Down climbed a few moves. Managed to reach down and clip the quick draw on the U bolt and with my last bit of energy blindly manged to grab the rope and clip
I yelled take again the epic was avoided and Deano lowered me off.
I looked over at Rosie and she had an expression on her face like i had already died.
It was fucken scary! So what have a learnt.
1 Deano is probably the best belayer in the world!
2 Bolts aren’t as 100% as you would like them to be, there’s always variables.
Deano and I speculated a few scenarios on how the hell it had happened. Most likely the rope dragging the quick draw up and the nudge from my foot finished the job.
The below link is an example of how it possibly happened.
http://www.climerware.com/unclip.shtml

So can’t dwell on these things otherwise I wouldn’t climb anymore, stay in my room in a bubble to scared to do anything in this world. I put my fears aside, got back on the climb and sent it later that day 🙂

Photo from last time i was there.
Me on “The Butchers Dog” 25 Sisters Beach
Me on “The Butchers Dog” 25 Sisters Beach





Winter awaits…

14 04 2010

Home from the Gramps now. The last few days of the trip was good, was raining so we went to some caves.
1st went to Muline and after 4 shots i did “Thrash and Dangle” 24 awesome route, awesome rock 🙂
Next day we went to the gallery and I did
“Two Tribes” 24 I was so pumped that i skipped the last draw an threw for the final jug like a money 🙂
“Weaveworld” 23 again really pumped pulling the lip so skipped the clip and reached back and clipped it once past it.
The Gaylery was a cool little place “Monkey Puzzle” 28 looked really funky, lots of knee bars through a roof.

Callum finished the trip by doing a first assent on a boulder in the camp site. A v10 he called it “Renaissance” started off a ledge and has a dyno finish with a potential big fall but he sent it! nice work mate 🙂

As we left John, Anna and Neils had just arrived. Neils was going to get on Serpentine 29 which i don’t think he’ll have any trouble with. Was good to see John and Anna before we left, they are off to the US of fucken ey in a few weeks to rip it up, have fun guys.

The day after I got home Simon the Young Gun came around and mounted my new hang boards in the shed, thanks mate and he is off the the gramps to do Serpentine as well. After crushing his first 28 (not to mention he did it placing gear) last week I don’t think he’ll have any trouble sending it either.

I’m back at work now till August when Claire and I go to Europe so until then train train train and next weekend going up to the star factory to find something hard to do to keep me busy till I leave 🙂

Oh yeah and I’m about to ordered a new Digital SLR Camera =/ Lots of money but hopefully get some good shots to make it worth it.