Small gear for a small man…

7 02 2011

I am now on a 4 week break for my other life as a nerd.
The first day i had off work the forecast look shit tassie wide but 2 hours before finishing work a few text message from Simon saw me organized to go up the east coast and 4 hours after finishing work we where there and Simon had his draws on his project.
Sat the conditions where shit, i figured out all the moves on “Harlequin Variant” 24 but no way was i sending it that day so spent the rest of the day avoiding the rain, Playing paparazzi and getting psyched πŸ™‚
Sun condition’s where ace. Simon warmed up on his project. I warmed up on “Harlequin”, figured out the gear for “Harlequin Variant” blue alien and a blue ball nut. Simon sent his project next shot. In his words “‘Forever Young” 28, the line everybody else just looked at… πŸ˜€ It was fucken rad to watch πŸ™‚
First lead shot on “Harlequin Variant” i wasted a lot of energy placing a blue alien near the beginning of the traverse that was crap anyway. Got half way through the traverse stuffed up a hand placement and binged off. The blue alien came to the ground with me.
Second shot i skipped the blue alien power through the crux. Placed a blue ball nut (the smallest one there is) and fell on the grade 19 slab move right onto it. ball nuts are bomber πŸ™‚
Third shot done and dusted πŸ™‚
Great start to a month of climbing in tassie πŸ™‚

Harlequin Variant – Original climb description
Climb Harlequin for 4m, underling out right, then climb thin wall above.
Protection is adequate, but must be placed blindly on the traverse.
RP’s protect the climbing above.

Harlequin Variant – My climb description
Climb Harlequin for 4m, underling out right, then climb thin wall above.
Protection is adequate, but don’t bother placing any on the traverse you’ll just get pumped, fall off and your gear will blow.
RP’s can protect the climbing above but if you want your gear to actually hold buy some ball nuts πŸ™‚

Toby and Simon new routing

Toby & Kes lassie’s wall

Simon solo sneakers

Simon after first asscent of Forever Young 28

Bec and all her charm

Advertisements

Actions

Information

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s




%d bloggers like this: