Tassie, you kinda gotta want it

14 02 2011

In March 2009 Simon and Gary put the first route to go up the center of the east face of Mt Anne.
East Face Regular Route 240m 22 A2
John and I though we’d go out and give freeing the aid pitches a go.
No luck though, everything was seeping. Simon, Alex and Dee had walked up as well but they bailed as quick as we did. We ended up walking all the way for a game of chess. It was a good game and it was good to hang out with some friends and talk about it rather than doing it cause that what climbing is really about right 😉

After resting for a day, decided to head down to the Paradiso @ Mt Brown.
Everyone kept saying that the conditions down there after rain where shit. That it would be seeping lots so i was a bit reluctant to down after it pissed down the whole night before. It’s an afternoon stop that’s all head down at lunch time and by the time you get there the conditions are perfect. We went down a bit early and had to sit around in the cold for ages waiting for it to get good.
Day 1 ticked “Thunder Birds Are Go” 24
Good route 2x crux’s both reachy, i found this one a tad hard.
Day 2 ticked “Offender of the Faith” 24
Awesome route. Just keeps on going with good climbing. 2x crux’s get your feet in the right position and it ain’t too bad. Even has a few bomber hand jams 🙂

Week 1 of 4 down. What will the next week hold. I don’t know, dinner time now. will worry about tomorrow when it arrives. Ah, it feels good 🙂

John – Simon – Alex – Dee – Shelf Camp

John – Chess – Mt Anne

John chilling in the bush

Mt Anne east face topo

Kim on “K2” 21 – with 3.5m swells

Claire getting belayers neck

Gary on “Captain Jack” 30


Small gear for a small man…

7 02 2011

I am now on a 4 week break for my other life as a nerd.
The first day i had off work the forecast look shit tassie wide but 2 hours before finishing work a few text message from Simon saw me organized to go up the east coast and 4 hours after finishing work we where there and Simon had his draws on his project.
Sat the conditions where shit, i figured out all the moves on “Harlequin Variant” 24 but no way was i sending it that day so spent the rest of the day avoiding the rain, Playing paparazzi and getting psyched 🙂
Sun condition’s where ace. Simon warmed up on his project. I warmed up on “Harlequin”, figured out the gear for “Harlequin Variant” blue alien and a blue ball nut. Simon sent his project next shot. In his words “‘Forever Young” 28, the line everybody else just looked at… 😀 It was fucken rad to watch 🙂
First lead shot on “Harlequin Variant” i wasted a lot of energy placing a blue alien near the beginning of the traverse that was crap anyway. Got half way through the traverse stuffed up a hand placement and binged off. The blue alien came to the ground with me.
Second shot i skipped the blue alien power through the crux. Placed a blue ball nut (the smallest one there is) and fell on the grade 19 slab move right onto it. ball nuts are bomber 🙂
Third shot done and dusted 🙂
Great start to a month of climbing in tassie 🙂

Harlequin Variant – Original climb description
Climb Harlequin for 4m, underling out right, then climb thin wall above.
Protection is adequate, but must be placed blindly on the traverse.
RP’s protect the climbing above.

Harlequin Variant – My climb description
Climb Harlequin for 4m, underling out right, then climb thin wall above.
Protection is adequate, but don’t bother placing any on the traverse you’ll just get pumped, fall off and your gear will blow.
RP’s can protect the climbing above but if you want your gear to actually hold buy some ball nuts 🙂

Toby and Simon new routing

Toby & Kes lassie’s wall

Simon solo sneakers

Simon after first asscent of Forever Young 28

Bec and all her charm

The Last 5 months

2 02 2011

I’ve been mega slack with this blog…. Oh well here’s an update.

Short Version…
Sent another 26
Got injured
Did my first Sky Dive
Got better
Claire got her Visa
Got injured
I passed my first ever exam
Got better
Moved house

Long Version…

Once back from Europe Claire and I lodged her temporary visa application (meaning if they where in a good mood she could stay in the country indefinably)

I went back to work where I’ve been for the last 5 months. Just climbing on weekends.
I sent “Immaculate Misconception” 26 which makes 3 26’s now it’s been slow progress, seems my body won’t keep up with my mind.

Shortly after sending that i flashed a 24 that i had done before but in the process injured my finger and had to take a month off for it to heal. So I worked 21 days straight, accruing enough flex to pay for my next 2 trips and eating too many pies.

After a month off too a little bit to get back into it but feeling about 80% now so time to climb some more.
Just after xmas i did my first sky dive, then 2 more and that was it. Sat around the drop zone for 3 days and wasn’t able to jump due to weather/wind. Since then i have run out of money so jumping is on the back burner for a little while. It’s insanely addictive though, just expensive, can’t wait to do it again 🙂

My bro came down for 10 days over xmas, was awesome to spend some time with him again, took him for a few climbs, which he crushed 🙂 We spend new years eve and my Friends Paul and Rossie. Everyone had the required amount to drink. The next day my brother flew back to new castle and i got a text “Ey bro i don’t even remember saying good bye to you, i through up on myself…” Good times 🙂

Back at work over xmas i resumed the study i had started last year and after filling my brain with too many useless facts like
Titan Chess which is included in Windows 7 is not included in all version of Windows 7. Titan Chess requires Windows Aero. Areo is only supported in Windows Home Premium and above
Rabble rabble rabble………..
I passed my first ever exam 75% (needed 70 to pass)

The next day (5 months from lodgin) Claire got her Visa which means
1. we can stay in the country and
2. I am no longer a sugar daddy 🙂
3. We’ll have more money to spend on things we don’t need but must have.

Then the day after that John got his citizenship and we have a shindig to celebrate. Some more than others 🙂

I’ve moved to west Hobart now. Living again with Giles (pass me a Scalpel) Barrington, Kirke (The only redeeming factor of Denmark) and Murphy (Goat Balls) the parrot. It feels like home already 🙂

Next week i start a month off work and finger’s crossed i don’t injure myself i plan to climb in tassie for the whole time and hopefully climb Frenchman’s.

Oh yeah i did some topos for thesarvo – More to come when i stop being lazy 🙂

Jed Parkes MCTS

The Paradiso

I look pretty in pink

Free Gear

Mr Happy (Merry)

Wet slabs…. (Bec)

Sleeping beauty (Crazy John)

I really don’t know? (Claire, Lachy and I)

The happy couple

The bubbles the bubbles (Dee, Duncan and Deano, too many D’s)

I’M GOING TO EAT YOU!!!!!!!! (Alex and Dee)

SMILE (Helen and I)

Will after how many Vodka Cruisers? 😉

Duncan, need i say more

My Bro and I top of first pitch of “Pegasus” 14 Pipes

Claire and I on XMas day at the top of “Sky Rocket” 20 one of the best climb on the Pipes

270 Packets of Migoreng