Close call, have you every had a quick draw unclip underneath you, i have, fucken scary.

18 04 2010

I went to sisters beach on the weekend.
I wanted to have another shot on β€œThe Butchers Dog” 25
After warming up i got on the climb, figured out the crux and i was going draw to draw at the top to get everything else dialed, my feet were just above the 3rd bolt and ….
I said to Deano “take”
He responded “just fix that quick draw below you” I looked down and it was cross loaded.
So I climbed down a little, gave the quick draw a nudge with my foot and the fucken quick draw came off…
The realization that suddenly I was like 12 meters off the deck and there was nothing between me and the ground hit me quick and now jumping off wasn’t an option, unless i wanted at least a broken limb.
Dean ‘Rodriguez’ Rollins was on the ball though “Have you got a quick draw he yelled up”
Luckily I did, so i fought the pump a little bit longer. Down climbed a few moves. Managed to reach down and clip the quick draw on the U bolt and with my last bit of energy blindly manged to grab the rope and clip
I yelled take again the epic was avoided and Deano lowered me off.
I looked over at Rosie and she had an expression on her face like i had already died.
It was fucken scary! So what have a learnt.
1 Deano is probably the best belayer in the world!
2 Bolts aren’t as 100% as you would like them to be, there’s always variables.
Deano and I speculated a few scenarios on how the hell it had happened. Most likely the rope dragging the quick draw up and the nudge from my foot finished the job.
The below link is an example of how it possibly happened.

So can’t dwell on these things otherwise I wouldn’t climb anymore, stay in my room in a bubble to scared to do anything in this world. I put my fears aside, got back on the climb and sent it later that day πŸ™‚

Photo from last time i was there.
Me on β€œThe Butchers Dog” 25 Sisters Beach
Me on β€œThe Butchers Dog” 25 Sisters Beach


Winter awaits…

14 04 2010

Home from the Gramps now. The last few days of the trip was good, was raining so we went to some caves.
1st went to Muline and after 4 shots i did “Thrash and Dangle” 24 awesome route, awesome rock πŸ™‚
Next day we went to the gallery and I did
“Two Tribes” 24 I was so pumped that i skipped the last draw an threw for the final jug like a money πŸ™‚
“Weaveworld” 23 again really pumped pulling the lip so skipped the clip and reached back and clipped it once past it.
The Gaylery was a cool little place “Monkey Puzzle” 28 looked really funky, lots of knee bars through a roof.

Callum finished the trip by doing a first assent on a boulder in the camp site. A v10 he called it “Renaissance” started off a ledge and has a dyno finish with a potential big fall but he sent it! nice work mate πŸ™‚

As we left John, Anna and Neils had just arrived. Neils was going to get on Serpentine 29 which i don’t think he’ll have any trouble with. Was good to see John and Anna before we left, they are off to the US of fucken ey in a few weeks to rip it up, have fun guys.

The day after I got home Simon the Young Gun came around and mounted my new hang boards in the shed, thanks mate and he is off the the gramps to do Serpentine as well. After crushing his first 28 (not to mention he did it placing gear) last week I don’t think he’ll have any trouble sending it either.

I’m back at work now till August when Claire and I go to Europe so until then train train train and next weekend going up to the star factory to find something hard to do to keep me busy till I leave πŸ™‚

Oh yeah and I’m about to ordered a new Digital SLR Camera =/ Lots of money but hopefully get some good shots to make it worth it.

Spank me hard!

9 04 2010

Gramps trip is almost over. We have taken our gear down from Taipan wall and the forecast is for rain so we will be hiding out in caves and climbing steep stuff until we come home.
Not much news for me. Tried to climb a few things and got totally shutdown. Word Party” (pitch 2 ) 27 was what i had in mind but i was simply to weak, looked like really good climbing but it was very bouldery and I could hardly sick 1 move let alone climb the whole pitch. It served its purpose though; I need to train harder if I want to climb harder. Psyched to get strong, come back and crush it!
We also wandered around some boulders for a look which was fun. Jake took us through this 20m squeeze problem which was unique πŸ™‚
I wrote up a MasterBeta artical for the Whipper website (You can view it here) and after Jake and Deano did much editing it’s a pretty good read.
My ankle is still no good; it’s a convenient excuse for the lack of anything worth mentioning in the last week but it is an excuss none the less, for a full list of excuses from everyone on Taipan wall over Easter there is another whipper article solely dedicate to that (You can view it here)
Looking forward to some time back in tassie but it has been yet another great trip, Taipan wall is amazing, I’ll be back soon enough as it has inspired me in many ways.

Fisting Taipan Wall

4 04 2010

Well after a rest day in the sham i headed back up to taipan wall, warmed up on the boulder traverse, got on the invisible fist and sent it fist shot πŸ™‚ my second 26, awesome and after 4 attempts πŸ™‚
There is a lot to be said for having a climb dialed, to know where to rest, where not to. Knowing where to clip from. Knowing which holds are shit. Well knowing exactly every hold on the climb. All this made it feel like a really easy ascent, well all that & in the end the I found 4 no hands rest on the route.
1 down on the stab very obvious
2 lie down in a big horizontal break, which can be tricky to get out of but its pretty good when you lean out on a horizontal knee bar so you have both hands free to pull back on with
3 sit on top of a massive knob
4 sneaky heel hock that you rock over just beside the last bolt.
This one was a savior because the last move is a big throw to a jug (thanks 2 bisso for that beta)
So yeah felt good 2 tick my first route on arguably the best cliff in the world TAIPAN
So the plan was to get fit getting pumped on invisible fist but the new plan is well the same as the first plan but on Mr Joshua 25 technically 1 grade easier but not as many no hands rest so I think I’ll find it harder. I had one go at it, figuring out moves. Got to the top decided that I wouldn’t’ clip the anchors and instead jumped off. Good idea at the time (get my head used to falling) bad idea when I smacked into the wall and sprained my ankle 😦 That’s the problem when your belayer is tied to the cliff and can’t give u a dynamic catch. This is nothing new for me I have had bad ankles for a long time but sitting here looking at taipan wall and not being able to climb in fucking annoying so hopefully it won’t take long to heel

Old man and old injuries

1 04 2010

30 years old, fuck me!
When I was 25 i felt like I was 30 and now I’m 30 i feel like I’m 25, still it’s a bit weird…

I’m at the Grampians for the next few weeks. The plan climb one climb “The Invisible Fist of Professor Hiddich Smiddich” grade 26
I have put the gear on, I have all the moved dialed and now it’s just a matter of getting fit.
I have only climbed one other 26 “Future Tense” at frog buttress, that climb was on gear so you would think I would find it harder but no, Future Tense was vertical crimping which is more like the climbing I have done in tassie unlike the Invisable Fist which is overhanging most of the way on big sloppy holds which is not technically hard like all the climbs I have been doing in tassie just pumpy as hell.
So the new plan is get pumped stupid trying not to fall off the dyno which is the last move on the Invisable Fist and get fit in the process.
Taipan Wall is amazing and it great to finally be here πŸ™‚
Watching all my friends climb is amazing, so inspiring.
Jake is going good on “Groove Train” 33 and every time I belay him I’m getting more and more psyched to try “Groovy” 28 (the first bit of Groove Train)
Ryan and Phil, from Sydney (who i meet at frog last year) are here to climb “Serpentine” 29 which looks amazing now very high on my to do list (when i can climb that hard)
My neck is a bit sore but isn’t stopping me climb atm so fingers crossed it doesn’t get worse, think it’s just the old injury from frog last year, Taipan is very shouldery climbing so I’m taking some drugs and climbing on πŸ™‚