MetVuw Doesn’t Lie

27 02 2010

Netvuw forcast for 27-02-10 @ 1100

Netvuw forcast for 27-02-10 @ 1100

Thats the forecast for today. It could have possibly been good down at the totem pole so Jeramie and I took our chances and went down but nope we got soaked
Me standing in the rain soaked beside the totem pole

Me standing in the rain soaked beside the totem pole

We drove down to fortescue bay, walked into the tote, walked out and drove home in 6 hours. Not a bad morning.
I’m psyched to get back on it so I went to work for 6 hours in the afternoon so i can take a day off during the week and go back down, fingers crossed…
If you want to know if it’s going to rain, use Metvuw. Its pretty spot on unlike BOM
>Metvuw link.


The Times They Are a-Changin

22 02 2010

Yeah yep they are… I’m turning 30 very soon. It’s crept up very quick. The thing is I don’t feel that old. I’m fitter than I have ever been, I’m happier than I have ever been & I wouldn’t want to change a thing.

The Fitzroy house has come to an end, we’re moving out in 3 weeks, still looking for a place to live but something will come up soon. John (Who just did climbed Frenchman’s Cap in a day car to car, bloody impressive, read on…) is off to America (Fuck Yeah) to rip it up and free El Cap & Topher is off to Canada/America to find a hot internally girl and seduce her 🙂
It’s been the best house i have ever lived in. If it wasn’t for that house I wouldn’t have met half the ppl I know and some are now my closest friends. It will be sad to leave but it’s time to move on.

I sent “Neon God” on Friday Night 50m 25 it climbs as 1st Pitch 25m 22 & 2nd Pitch 25m 25
It took me longer than i had hoped but it is such a good climb i didn’t mind going up again and again.
Took me 10 attempts in total (4 trips to the pipes)
2nd attempt top roped it clean
Next attempts figured out a better sequence for the crux
8th attempt did the crux but fell at the last bolt, no ne num…
10th attempt sent 🙂 but as i grabbed the jug at the end of the crux all 3 other point cut lose so i was swinging around from 1 hand on the jug, I swore and laughed at the same time.
Thanks to Simon and Claire who both belayed me too many times so i could climb this route 🙂
Next I was thinking “Wootang” 45m 25 or “The Tower of Power” 60m 25 or “James’s Arête” 15m 25
All sound good so will see how I go but first Jeramie and I are going to the Totem Pole again on Saturday and this time I would like to at least make it to the top and figure out the crux that I couldn’t do last time.

Grug, Katrine, Ben, Claire and I went and did the Moai on Sunday.
Amazing little pillar, you would never expect it to be there.
We did it house to house leaving at 0710 and getting back at 2100 so just under 14 hours
Rapping in was easy, we decided to pull our ropes and climb out.
First I did “Blunt Instrument” 20m 20 I found it tricky, I had trouble reaching everything but made it up in the end.
Then I did the second pitch of “Burning Spear” 15m 22 I found it a lot tricky, around the crux somewhere I found myself hanging off a crimp with 2 heal hocks in a reverse gaston position. I though for sure I was off but somehow I was staying there so I though well I’ll try and put the draw on the hanger, that went O.K. i hadn’t fallen yet, O.K. i’ll try and clip, wow I still haven’t fallen, O.K. Climb on…. I’m sure there was an easier way but I onsighted it none the less 🙂
Finished with “Sacred Site” 35m 18 pleasant little climb with some fun moves.
Claire and I summited the Moai twice, it was defiantly worth the long day.

It was a long week starting with a 15hour day at work on Monday and ending with me walking like a zombie into Fitzroy at 9pm on Sunday night as I look out my office Window I am glad to see it is pissing down so I can rest for a few days without the urge to climb.

A final note: I don’t look good with a mohawk =/ See picture below…

A little bit of Tassie

14 02 2010

Just finished a little trip around Tassie.

In Short…
1. Totem Pole 24 – I couldn’t do the crux on pitch 2 so bailed.
2. Pipes – “Neon God” 25 – 1st time trying to lead it had 2 rests felt o.k.
3. Tyndals – “Big City Life” 22 (skipped 26 pitch and did 19 Variant) awesome addition to the cliff onighted it all
4. Sisters Beach – Flashed “Rhythm Rude Girl” 22 & tried “The Butchers Dog” 25 but was steep & hard
5. Mt Roland – “Rysavy Ridge” 350m 12 great day out
6. Hillwood – Did “Ancient of Days” 23 “Dr Pepper” 23 (2nd shot) “Bozon” 25 (3rd Shot) “Sacred Stone” 24 fell on last move of crux.
7. Pipes – “Neon God” 25 again – 3x attemps but just couldn’t get the last crux move.

The full Story…
We were supposed to be going to Flinders Island for 2 weeks but when the boat company went into receivership is wasn’t going to be cheap enough for us to go so we decided to stay on our little island and have an adventure here instead.
I had found myself the week before thinking wow if I keep climbing like this I reackon I’ll go to the Tote next summer and try and climb it. The cogs ticked over in my brain for a few seconds and I thought fuck that go now, how hard can it be right, I’ve been climbing long enough to give it a good shot so Sent Claire a message she was surprised, didn’t think the tote was something she’d ever get to do. Also I knew Zach would be psyched to get on it as well and another phone call later a crew of 3 PSYCHED climbers were ready to go climb the world know climb of Tasmania, “The Totem Pole”
So we started by going to Fortescue bay with my aim of doing the Totem Pole on Sat and the Moai on Sun.
After a late start sat morning we (Zach Claire and I) made it out to the Tote. Dave, Deano and Rose where with us, they did the Candle Stick. We rapped down without trouble except I was pretty nervous so half way down the rap i had to yell back up to Zach to bring down my shoes i had forgot. I did the swing across and clipped into the belay at the base of the tote. I was really nervous, water isn’t my favourite thing and if was lapping at my feet like it wanted to eat me. Mean while Dave and Rose had swam across to the Candle Stick and Deano (like me didn’t like the idea of swimming) had Tyrolean across. I think i rested about 4-5 times on the first pitch, I did the Deep Play 20m 24 variant. It was great climbing and once I was a few bolt up off the water my nerves had cleared.
Claire pulled on 1 draw to skip the crux and Zach had 1 fall on the crux both were psyched to be there. That soon changed though. The second pitch of the Free Route was where i was headed next, straight off the belay and nice line of shinny hangers to follow. A few hard moves a few rest and a big fall got me to the 6th hanger and then it got hard. I tried as best i could to figure out a sequence to get to a jug on the arête which i could easily see and even made it within a foot of it at one stage but just kept pinging off. It was getting late so i decided that it was time to admit defeat. I yelled down to Claire and Zach (who both had been sitting in the cold wind for a while now) “You guys want to have a raz up to here or u ready to bail” there wasn’t even half second of thought they wanted out of here as well.
Getting off the Tote wasn’t a hassle at all, an easy Tyrolean back to the main land, jug back to the top and it was all over. Zach and Claire climbed a cool looking crack which got wider at the top, don’t know if it has been climbed yet but they said it was pretty good.
The same time we got to the top Dave, Deano and Rose where on there Tyrolean back over as well. Zach went to put his shoes on but there was only 1 there, the wind must have blown one off, an epic walk back without boots but he had a quick look around and saw it 10m down the cliff, it had fallen landed on a small rock wedge in-between a small stick and a crack, God know how it landed there and stayed but i put Zach on belay he down climbed to it and soon had 2 boots again, epic avoided. We arrived back at camp just as the sun set. My first trip to the tote not as epic as i though it was going to be and I will be back there again soon enough, figure out that move, make it to the top and send the climb.
Sunday morning the wind had picked up so much that everyone had decided that climbing wasn’t going to happen so went to Roaring Beach instead and had a nice swim in the surf.
Monday, after much talk the night before and the weather looking good on the west coast for a change we had organised 6 of us to head to the Tyndals, leaving Tuesday which a chance for a climb on the pipes right “Neon God” 25 it is. Claire sent the first pitch (22) her hardest climb to date, she was thrilled. Not so good news for me though, I made it to the top of the second pitch with 2x rests. Very balancey moves a definite crux on side pulls and goat for a jug. Great climb sustained climbing not as powerfull a crux as pleasent screams but still feels hard.
Tuesday, drove to the Tyndals walked up the hills with 2x nights of food. Amazing place up there, would never go without a GPS though, i had been there once before but i defiantly couldn’t find the cave without the GPS pointing me in the right direction. Didn’t get basically any sleep that night, it was really windy in the tent.
Wednesday, Big City Life, Bloody nice Job Simon and John, had a ball on this route. Really well equipped with only needing a 60m rope and a light rack for the route. I climbed it as Pitch 1 25m 17. Pitch 2a 35m 22. Pitch 3 30m 19. Pitch 4b 35m 19. Pitch 5 15m 13 Onsighted everything. The 22 pitch was amazing laying back up an insecure ramp, turn left onto the face, plug in a #2 camalot and run it out up an easy slab, If you haven’t done it do it. Not as epic as it might look, doing it in a day from your car would be a piece of piss.
Tried to sleep in the cave that night but the wind was just as bad in there, eating dirt all night.
Thursday, At about 1am i feel sick with a stomach but the next morning no one was psyched to climb so with 2x nights of nearly no sleep and not being able to eat anything except a cup of tea the walk back down the hill was hard for me, Claire was nice enough to carry most of our gear 🙂 Once back at the cars we drove to my sisters place in Wynyard, I had a protein shake and passed out. I suppose the only thing that made me feel better that day was that it rained all the way to Wynyard which meant that leaving was probably the right decision. Alex and Will were still up there trying to complete their new route, it would have been a tough day for them up there.
Friday i woke up feeling better thanks god. Still decided not to do anything that day to make sure i was right for the rest of the trip. Claire and I dropped Oli, Topher, Zach and Duncan at Rocky Cape, I couldn’t help myself so soloed a grade 10, i wasn’t that impressed by the rock so Claire and I left and went to a few beaches had a few swims and cooked pizza in my sisters awesome huge new oven.
Saturday, Sisters Beach, i had been here 2 years before, had tried Rythum Rude Girl at least 2 times and falling both time so i was keen to get back on it and finally send it. Which was much easier that i remembered got it first shot so was happy with that. Oli and Zach flashed it as well topher got to the last move ran out of pump and fell off (That’s what happens when you do your honours and don’t get home to after midnight every night, didn’t take him long to get back into form though) Decided to try a harder climb that i hadn’t done before “The Butchers Dog” 25 after dogging my way up it I knew i wouldn’t have time to send it that day. Had a second shot on top rope and got it with 2x rest @ the crux. It’s got an awesome boulder start to the first bolt then a hard crux on small holds to a bif move to a good edge @ the second bolt the the things just keeps you pumped all the way to the ancors, really good climb, another reason to go back to Sisters Beach.
Sunday an early alarm + a little Oli FAFF sore us leaving just b4 8, destinatlion. Rysavy Ridge. Simon had called the night before and was looking for some company so pefect timing we meet him on the way and had 3 groups of 2 ready to climb. Simon and I ran ahead a 2 pitches up caught up to a goup of 3 in front of us. Looked up and sore Von + 2x friends of hers so Simon and I spend the day chatting at the heals of those 3 and casually made our way up the ridge. We where in no rush, we had to wait for the other 4 behind us anyway so it was nice just to be our on rock on a perfect Tassie summers day, not a hint of wind and some fun climbing. Simon and I played around on the summit for a few hours while every one caught up and then preceded to decend which was just as fun as the climb, awesome little magically valley to decend though, make sure it you do it you do it in the light, really pretty down there 🙂 After we jumped in the cars and drove to Simons parents place in Glengarry, quickly cook some Migoreng Noddles jumped into bed it was 1130 a long day but so much fun.
Monday Hillwood – O.k. this is getting to long….
Topher and I teamed and had a good day. We went over to the rock of ages did a 17 a 20 a 22 i had 1 fall then ancient of days 23. Then being really hot took a break went to the gorge for a swim then came back and I did Dr Pepper 23 second shot and had a top rope on Bozon 25 and figure out most of the moves. Oli was trying Dr Pepper as well but fell clipping the 3rd bolt I had time to take in a little slack and sit down real quick so his feet where on the ground when he finished falling, freaked him out a bit but he was fine.
Tuesday rest day – multiple swims a relaxing day
Wednesday – Got straight on Bozon, put the draws on it, got the moves sorted and sent it second shot. Oli figured out a better way to clip the third bolt on Dr Pepper and after a few shots sent it but not before having another fall and yelling “Fuck this climb; let’s go the gorge and perve on 16 year olds.: had to laugh 🙂 Topher sent it as well. Then we went over to cave rock, I made my way up “Sacred Stone” 24 great climb through a roof. It started to rain so we bailed and played cards for the rest of the day.
Thursday – Rain threatening Topher and I rushed everyone into the cars, it started to spit on the way to the cliff but we were both psyched to have another shot at “Sacred Stone” 24, Claire and Oli weren’t so Topher and I went over to cave rock again, i put the draws on, figured out a better sequence for the crux, had a second shot, pulled over the roof, tired to get my left foot up but pumped off. Topher had 2 shots same problem, pumped off, I wanted one more shot so i topher came back down but just as he did it started pissing down, trip over… Cleaing the route in the rain wasn’t fun, getting to the roof was fine but the wet slab above required some aid climbing techniquicks, it wasn’t pretty =/ After faffing at Simons place and watching a movie we decided to drive back to Hobart. Rained the whole way.
Friday – Woke up and it was dry, so in the afternoon went back up to try “neon god” 25 again. The first pitch felt easy, i was confident i could do it but nope, had 3x attempts, figured out a better sequence for the crux but fell at the end of the crux just had one move to go, so close. Lost the last of my finger tips so sat it was raining sp tapped my finger had a good hang board session and decided to rest for a few day, do some skin farming and hopefully get back on “Neon God” in the next few days and send 🙂