You can’t have a heart in Hearts

27 11 2009

Well the Araps trip is pretty much over, we’re on the boat tomorrow night. We’ve had a bit of rain the last few day (which meant a lot of card games) but we still managed to get out and do some climbs. I fell on Kachoong, wheeeeee….. Alex onsighted it and Oli had 1 fall, pulled the rope and finally sent it after, what 6 years?… Nice one Oli πŸ™‚ I managed to Onsight “Squeakeasy” 22 it defiantly wasn’t easy, I didn’t stop to put in any gear during the second crux and mid crux i thought i was about to fall, looked down at my last piece of gear and knew that wouldn’t be pretty if I did so goated for a just and made it, just πŸ™‚
Deano has finished every climb in the Arapiles Selected Climbs guide grade 12 and under. Deano and I went and did his log problem, that was scary =/
It’s been an awesome trip, lots of new climbs (see full list below) didn’t make it to the Grampians (Again) and didn’t try “Trojan” or “Mr Joshua” will have to toughen up and look at them next time πŸ™‚

Grade — Climb Name — Style Climbed — Climbed With
6 — Guiding Light — Onsight (solo) — Lisa
9 — D Major — Second — Helen
10 — The Shroud — Onsight (solo) — Oli
11 — Lizard Procrastination — Second — Deano
11 — Dracula — Second — Claire
12 — Bard — Done Already — Claire
12 — Cheshire Cat — Second — Deano & Helen
12 — The Protege — Second — Deano
12 — Sweet Bugger All — Second — Deano
13 — Ivan — Onsight — Claire
14 — Lamplighter x2 — Done Already — Oli then Claire
14 — Deacons Dilemma — Onsight — Lisa
15 — Beautiful Possibilities — Second — Oli
15 — Resignation — Done Already — Claire
16 — The Confession — Done Already — Oli
16 — Jason — Second — Oli
16 — Watchtower Crack — Done Already — Claire
17 — Catcher — Onsight — Deano
17 — Golliwogs Cakewalk — Onsight — John
17 — Spellbinder — Onsight — Oli
17 — Moby Dick — Second — Oli
17 — Preludes — Onsight — Claire
17 — Mari — Done Already — Claire
17 — Scorpion Direct Start — Onsight — Claire
17 — Oceanoid — Onsight — Claire
17 — Hyperbola — Second — Helen & Deano
18 — King Rat x2 — Done Already — Deano then Claire
18 — Cheops — Onsight — Oli
18 — Huey — Onsight — Oli
18 — Skink — Done Already — Claire
18 — Scorpion — Second — Claire
18 — I’m a little Dinosaur — Done Already — Claire
18 — I’m a little Asteroid — Done Already — Claire
18 — Gilt Edged — Onsight — Oli
18 — Hyperbole — Onsight — Helen & Deano
18 — XI — Onsight — Helen & Oli
19 — Morfhydd x2 — Onsight — Anna then Oli
19 — Johns Corner (Direct Start) — Onsight — John
19 — Electra — Second — Anna
19 — Fly by Night — Onsight — Oli
19 — The Desired — Red Point — Oli
19 — Gollum — Onsight — Oli
19 — Rosy Shy — Onsight — Claire
19 — Quo Vadis — Onsight — Claire
19 — Wall of the Afternoon Sun — Onsight — Oli
19 — Firedance — Onsight — Oli
19 — Mandible — Onsight — Helen
19 — Possibly Beautiful — Red Point — Helen
19 — Judgement Day — Onsight — Helen
20 — Scourge — Onsight — John
20 — Fly Lichen Eagle x2 — Red Point — Anna then Oli
20 — Take Five — Onsight — Anna
20 — Bam Bam — Red Point — John
20 — Thunder Crack — Red Point — Claire
20 — Blue Hawii — Onsight — Helen
21 — Auto De Fa — Onsight — Claire & Oli
21 — Trinity Wall — Onsight — Oli
21 — A Taste of Honey x2 — Lead (Fell) — Helen (Also Seconded Alex)
21 — Ethereal — Onsight — Helen
21 — Kachoong — Lead (Fell) — Helen
22 — Second Coming — Onsight — Oli
22 — Squeakeasy — Onsight — Helen
?? — Deano’s Log — Shuffle Shuffle — Deano
V2 — Golden Streak — 4th Shot —


40 days and 40 nights

24 11 2009

It pissed down the other day which put the camp site under water. Managed to put an extention on the t-pee so that everyone could fit in dry but alas Anna’s hearing aid didn’t like the flooding rendering her nearly completely deaf (after drying it out for 1.5days, john layed his hands on it and a miracle, Anna’s hears again)
With the camp sight flooded Helen and I headed to the summit to climb “A Taste of Honey” 21, great route but pumpy, the lack of feet and the pump on the traverse spat me off (see photo sequece below, thanks Deano)
Next day the sun was back so Helen and I went to the yesterday gully while John and Anna went to do β€œTrinity Wall” 21. We could here the screams from where we were 1 ARGH (I’m going to fall) and 2 ARRRRGGGGGGGHHHHHHHH (I just fell) Apparently in space we can hear Anna scream πŸ˜‰ I onsighted “Etheral” 21 and “Blue Hawaii” 20 another good day πŸ™‚
3 more climbing days left, Kachoon mission tomorrow morning, Oli and I are both going to have a shot @ sending it so hopefully a no fall mission or the next blog might be from the Horsham hospital =/

Just keep swimming. Just keep swimming. Just keep swimming, swimming, swimming.

20 11 2009

Finally cooler weather for the rest of the trip πŸ™‚
On a 40 degrees day all we could bring ourselfs to do was an easier route. So John, Anna, Oli and I went and soloed “The Shroud” a really fun grade 10
The next morning Oli and I went up to do “Trinity Wall” a grade 21 30m traverse. As i started on the route it began to rain but fortunatly it was under a roof, i made it to the end, another onsight, yay, awesome line as the guide book describes it “A roller coaster ride through some of the most outrageous terrain at the mount” It was pissing down on me at the belay, Oli made it nearly all the way to the end on second but fell and took a whipper, was fun to watch πŸ™‚

There was an old woman who swallowed a fly, I don’t know why she swallowed a fly, Perhaps she’ll die.

19 11 2009

Well it’s still hot but the weather we have waiting for is coming, no longer in the 30’s next week it’s cooling down to the 20’s, YAY πŸ™‚
After my muched needed rest day i decided i wanted to try something harder. So after warming up on “Wall of the Afternoon Sun” a 19 which felt like a 17 Oli and I headed to the back of the Pharos. Nice and cool back there, in the shade for 75% of the day. “Second Coming” a grade 22 was the idea, 3 stars and it was. Sustained climbing but with good rests. 2 crux’s 1 of which was a grade 22 beached whale, it wasn’t pretty =/ Made it to the top though, onsight, fuck yeah, psyched πŸ™‚ After a loooong lunch break went and did “Gilt Edged” an 18 but god it was hard, really sipperly little bugger, did it in 1 pitch, great climbing.
This morning Oli and I did a few more 19’s before retreating to Horsham for the rest of the day to try and escape the hottest day here yet, was forcast to be 40 degrees… Total fire ban, so no cuppa tea for breakfast and no MiGoreng for dinner 😦 Really tired again but no rest day scheduled till Saturday so we’ll see what tomorrow brings πŸ™‚

Honeymoon with ticks

17 11 2009

Claire left today which ends a week on of climbing for me and a much needed rest day. It’s been an awesome week, climbed just over 1000m with an averaqge grade of 17 with the tempures in the high 30’s all week wasn’t too bad. So the highlights….
Auto de fa 21 onsight, the best route on watchtower face by far πŸ™‚
Thunder Crack 20 red point, i had fell on this earlier this year, went easy this time πŸ™‚ nearly a sport climb with all those carrots anyway πŸ™‚
Quo Vadis 19 onsight, Oh my god, if u haven’t done this do it, sooo good, the route keeps u thinking all the way to the end.
Scropion 18, Claire onsighted this in style, described as “the climbing equivalent of the shower scene in Psycho” grovel grovel, what’s a chicken wing oh well i’ll just lay back πŸ™‚
Oceanoid 17, onsight, 1st pitch i lead, deano said it was more like a 20 and he was right, vey hard for a 17 bloody sandbag more like an 18 but great climbing all the way, 2nd pitch Claire lead onsight, scared herself on the traverse then got up to the chimney got in an awkward position whimpered “I need a rest” and i replied “well down climb” tough love but she made it in the end πŸ™‚
Watchtower Crack 16 Claire onsighted this 1, great climb, take a 4 camalot for the 3rd pitch a 4 friend won’t fit =/

Lisa, Jeramie and Amanda had a few good days. Lisa managed to freak herself a fair bit but found her climbing spirit by the end of her time here. We did a cool climb at Mitre rock “Deacons Dilemma” 14 real nice moves, Lisa cruised it and was all Smiles. Jemanda mananged to have an epic on the Bard, Gale force winds on the route had slowed them down and once they made it to the top an avalanche had blocked the decent route forcing them to rap the route by head torch…

All in all another awesome week at Araps. 1.5 weeks left time to start looking at the climbs i really want to tick before i leave. Simon and Liz will be arriving on Friday? and Helen on Saturday, untill then Oli and I have a few cool routes in mind πŸ™‚ Oli onsighted “Judgement Day” 19 whichs looks like an awesome traverse. Deano is getting close to finishing every climb at araps below grade 10, John has found some work guiding for the next few days to rest his finger which is healing well, he onsighted a few 22’s yesterday. Anna is becoming a crack climbing master, onsighting “Electra” 19 all i could say when i got to the top on second was “You’re my hero” and then onsighting “Wizard of Ice” 20 which had spat John and Grug off on there onsighted attemps, can’t wait to see how she goes at the ben.

Best Wishes

15 11 2009

My sisters bday today.
HAPPY 18th SIS, sorry i couldn’t b there, will catch up for a drink when i get home xo
Claire, Oli, Deano and I setup this bday sign for you at Mt Arapiles, hope you can read it πŸ™‚

Happy 18th Hannah

Happy 18th Hannah

Your Hot.

13 11 2009

It’s still hot so woke up at 545 (well claire got me up) this morning and went and did “Auto De Fa” 21 slab, onsighted it so I’m psyched about that. Did the direct start where you dyno for a big hole and eventually get some gear after 10m, head games, arghh…..