Danish Aids…

Been a bit sick the last week (see John’s blog) but done a fair bit of climbing. Had my first lead fall on gear in months on “Bam Bam” 20 got to top, rap cleaned it and sent it straight away though, YAY
Doing heaps of climbs I haven’t done before which is awesome
“Huey” 18 crack is really worth the effort to walk up to.
“The Desired” 19 in 1 pitch is a great climb, take the time to find the good hold on the second crux and it might be easier =/
I’ve been doing heaps of the harder slabs on the watchtower faces which has been interesting. “Take Five” 20 the crux move is above a shitty #1 RP placement and below that is the ground, u may as well solo it the the first ascensionist did, great route though. Better again is “Fly Lichen Eagle” 20 the fisrt 6m is unprotected and thin, on the 2nd pitch u actually get good gear for the crux which should (just) keep you from smaking into the belay ledge and after that all the hard moves are unprotected and when you do get gear falling would put you on the nearest ledge and the finale “Gollum” 19 usually done as 2 pitches i decided to do it as 1, a fun thin rising traverse meets up to the “Skink” corner which you cross through and clip a piton, after this is the crux which is thin and for me no protection, i ended up running it out for 15m off the pin (I did have a #3 RP in which oli basically just looked at on second and it fell out and a shit #1 RP which was causing rope drag and when i was above it I flicked the rope and it fell out, there was a bomber tri-cam placement but i forgot to borrow them off John…) Was a good climb and good to work on the head games. Oli couldn’t stop smilling at the top “fuck man i can’t believe you just did that” I love climbing with friends So that’s pretty much all the hard slabs done on the watchtower face except 1… “Auto De Fa” 21 which was the reason for doing all the other slabs. Should get on it in the next few days, looks tricky.
It’s fucken hot here high 30′s have been getting up at 6am to try and bet the sun to the watchtower faces and even then sweating all the way up. The flies are a right pain but in the shade on the cliff life is good.
Going to pickup Claire now and Jeramie, Amanda and Lisa should be here later tonight. Rest day over, time to tick some classics until it cools down.

Deano all smiles, why, free meet :)

John on his solo day

Me on “Gollumn” 19

Me on “Gollumn” 19

Me on “Gollumn” 19

Me on “Gollumn” 19

Me on “Gollumn” 19, finally a JUG :)

Oli on “Huey” 18

Oli on “Spell Binder” 17

Oli quickly sides back in to the climbing bum life.